If you’re on the lookout for the latest skin care ingredient that can smooth and plump your complexion, you’ve probably seen influencers talking about exosomes, which claim to offer a wealth of anti-aging benefits. But before you buy into the hype, have you really thought about what they are, and whether they’re effective?
Exosomes are tiny, naturally occurring vesicles that skin and other types of cells release. They transport bioactive molecules (think: peptides, fats and proteins) to other cells.
There are dozens of serums, creams and other skin care products, some selling for hundreds of dollars, that contain exosomes, and medical spas often incorporate them into procedures like microneedling and laser treatments. But it’s important to note that exosomes are not approved by the Food and Drug Administration for cosmetic use.
Exosomes are a misunderstood skin care trend, though, since their behavior varies widely depending on their source and what they’re transporting, according to the experts we spoke to.
Here’s what to know about exosomes and their potential benefits and risks.
What are exosomes, exactly?
Think of exosomes as tiny “message bubbles that cells send to each other,” explained Dr. Jennifer Holman, a dermatologist with U.S. Dermatology Partners Tyler in Texas. The bubbles contain instructions (in the form of proteins, growth signals and genetic material) that “tell cells how they should behave.”
They can be derived from different sources, such as platelets, stem cells, fat or plants, and carry “biologically active messenger cargo.”
The skin benefits of exosomes.
“Not all exosomes are created equal, as they don’t contain the same instructions,” Holman said, so their effectiveness depends on what’s inside the bubble.
Take platelet-derived exosomes, for example. Platelets are cells that are drawn to areas of injury and help the body heal. Holman said platelet-derived exosomes are tiny and combine with or dissolve in fats, so they can be applied topically and tell the skin to heal itself.
Some studies have shown that exosomes applied topically can lead to “collagen production, repair of elastin and new elastin production, decreased inflammation and redness, and speeds post procedural healing time,” Holman said.
